Axial UMG10 6x6 Upgrade Series - Drive Shafts

Out of the box the UMG10 6x6 has some flaws. One of the flaws is the rear-most drive shaft used between the 2 rear axles.

It's got binding when the axles are parallel to each other, and the drive shaft insert falls out when the rear most axle is compressed to the max. I explore remedying this issue with mixed results due to the parts I used, but the general idea works.

This is the part where the 2 rear axles experience binding in the suspension travel. When the 2 rear axles are directly parallel with each other the driveshaft is fully compressed at a length that is too long for it to cycle smoothly.

The other issue is that when the last axle is fully compressed, the driveshaft insert isn't long enough and falls out.

They can deny this issue all they want, but it's an issue and it's a flaw. Luckily it's easily fixable.

One way to solve this issue is to use driveshafts that utilize only 2 pieces rather than 3 (2 capturing ends with an insert).

I bought some Team Raffee Driveshafts that were the perfect lengths that I needed.

Team Raffee Drive Shaft 85-114MM Team Raffee Drive Shaft 110-138MM Team Raffee Drive Shaft 110-138MM 12mm Jump Rings (eBay) 1/2-1/4in Heat Shrink (eBay)

Alternative driveshafts: Junfac 6x6 Driveshafts (eBay)

Unfortunately.... I neglected to notice that they use o-rings as pin retainers rather than the usual spring retainer..... SMH....Ugh I should've just waited for the Junfac 6x6 Universals to be in stock!

So... to try and salvage the situation, I bought some jump rings and shrink tubing.

I also did end up having to put E6000 on the shrink tube to driveshaft so that the shrink tubing wouldn't slide off.

Another issue with these is that the CVD cup is too large and hits the transmission cover. So I have to run with it off for now.

Given those annoyances, these driveshafts did exactly what I needed them to do.... reduce binding, and not fall out.

For now, I'll stick with these driveshafts. I would get the Junfac set, but I don't know if I'm going to stick with the pass through rear axle setup yet. If I go with a divorced rear axle, getting these driveshafts are a moot point, and I need to figure out new lengths needed to achieve the divorced axle setup.

There have been reports of "clicking" in the middle axle that could be caused by the pass through setup's gear mesh. Divorcing the rear axles would effectively get rid of that issue. I myself haven't run into the issue yet, but if I do come across it, I'll try shimming first.